Wish You Were Here

Day 13: Thursday, March 31, 2016
SO. So the plan, once we realized what we were actually in for regarding Mike's dad, was for my mom to fly out and help me get back to NY with my sanity somewhat intact and, hopefully, before it was too late. But then this morning the phone rang somewhere between 3 and 4 AM, and I didn't really want to answer it. Nothing good comes from a telephone that rings out in the night. And for as long as the phone still rang, I could maintain my blissful little bubble of denial. But I had to answer it, and I listened very carefully as my husband told me what I already knew: that Doug was gone. That I wasn't going to make it back in time to say goodbye to a man who has been my second father for the last 18 years. That my husband's world was collapsing, and I couldn't be there for him when he needed me most. On so many levels, and for so many reasons, I was heartbroken. Except for the fact that there was no time for that. There was no time for grief or even reverie. I no longer needed to rush back, but I still had to get back. And I had to get back with kids in tow, kids who still hadn't been to the Grand Canyon even though this was our big Grand Canyon trip. I had miles to go before I could allow myself the luxury of feeling anything. 2300 miles to be exact.

And so we began. It took a huge chunk of the morning to finish packing the car. I had managed to get most of our things re-packed on Tuesday, but getting it all in the car was completely another story. As it turns out, I am neither tall enough nor strong enough to pack a car top carrier. Jack, always eager to climb on top of the car for any reason, was a huge to help to me, although trusting all our clothes to the knot-tying skills of an 8 year-old, even one who is a Bear Scout, was nerve-wracking to say the least. We got a late start and finally headed toward The Grand Canyon just before lunch time. It had already been a really long day, and I couldn't even imagine how much longer it was going to be.

Driving across Arizona, you see lots of signs for The Grand Canyon. However, I wasn't aware how seriously far The Grand Canyon was from pretty much everything. It's far! When we finally arrived, it was already late afternoon. After a brief miscommunication that I do no have the strength to relive right now, we were able to sit through the last Ranger talk, which was required for our Junior Ranger badges, and then we headed to the gift shop first and finally to Mather Point to see this giant rent in the land. You can see what is important to my boys.

The Grand Canyon seems like a silly name for such an immensely ginormous feature. It's like saying the universe is big, or the ocean is damp. "Grand" somehow just doesn't really even begin to cover it. If you've ever been there, you know what I mean.  Letchworth is a grand canyon.  The Grand Canyon, well, that's something else entirely. It struck me how much the boys were moved by it, though. They reported feeling peace (thank you, Montessori school!). Standing amidst crowds of tourists, they remarked on the quiet of the place. We have seen so many beautiful places on this trip, and there have been several times when it has been hard to ignore the divinity I have felt in a place. Even on that crowded point, far from alone and no where near solitude, I was able to find a thread of peace. It was what I desperately needed right then, and I hope to be able to hold on to that thread during the months to come.

We left just before the sun set over the canyon. It was bad enough that I was there without Mike, who had desperately wanted to be there with us. I just couldn't bring myself to enjoy the beauty of the sunset on today of all days, and I didn't want to waste that experience. We will be back, and I will see the sunset over the canyon with him at my side, just as he should be. So we walked back to the Visitor Center to collect our Junior Ranger badges just in time to realize that they were decidedly closed. Jackson was distraught, to say the least. Luckily, I'm sure Aunt Gale will be back here sometime in the near future, and I am willing to bet, given our sob story, that someone will be willing to give her our badges. Most parks let you just mail your booklets in, but the Grand Canyon doesn't seem to have that same policy. If they do, it isn't advertised. We did manage to find our tokens, though. The parks have been selling these little tokens as collector's items. We have grabbed one from every park we've been to, but the visitor's center didn't have them. They were at a different store, which was luckily still open. It was late when we left, and getting dark. And then it started to snow. The boys laughed and said it looked like we were in hyperdrive. A snowstorm in the desert was really the last thing I needed. But we managed to make it to Tuba City by around 10pm or so. We found a hotel with a Denny's, and that was really all we could even hope to ask for. Tuba City is back in the Navajo Nation, where there is nothing for miles but desert and divinity. I have to hope the rest of this trip goes better than today. I don't dare say it out loud, but it can't get any worse.

Going to California with an aching in my heart

Day 12 - Wednesday, March 30, 2016
After Monday's warm-up and the torture of staying home with the kids all day yesterday, I was ready for today's adventure, even though it was far more adventurous than I have ever in my life been with kids. I got up, got myself and everyone else dressed, grabbed ALL THE FOOD, and left without thinking too much about it. I'm actually pretty proud of myself.

We started the day off by heading west. Something you may or may not know about me is that I am a collector of states.  I reached my goal of visiting all 50 states by the time I was 30, and now I'm working on collecting them for my children. (Jackson will have 31 when this is all over!) My boys don't usually have the latest and greatest, but traveling and showing them their world is important to us, so they can say they've been to a lot of different places. So California needed to be collected.  It was right there, a mere hour away.  How could we not? So we drove down I-40 and just across the border to Needles, CA.  Funny thing about Needles is that it is the biggest place (only place?) for miles around.  And yet there is NOTHING to do. You'd think the tourism people would try to capitalize on that. I went so far as to find the visitor's center for an idea of something to do with the kids, and they gave me a "beats me" kind of shrug and sent me to a playground in the local state park. But playgrounds are fun, and rivers are better, so we made do.  

Next, we headed north to Nevada. Hoover Dam or bust! The Nevada desert is beautiful, especially in the rain. Luckily, it was not raining at our destination. However, I desperately missed Mike. Beyond the normal missing of my husband, the Hoover Dam was a place I was not prepared for. I knew there would be tourists, but I was not prepared for the THRONGS of tourists invading one little dam. There were people EVERYWHERE, and driving was nearly impossible. On top of that, parking was a nightmare. Parallel parking is not my gift. I can teach other people to do it over the phone, but I have not successfully managed to do it myself since my driver's test more than half a lifetime ago. (I pretty much epitomize "Those you can't...") The lots were full, but parallel parking spots along the roadway were abundant. Unfortunately, I had to wait for one you could drive into and then just bitchily bully my way into it. It wasn't pretty. And trying to keep an eye on all three boys in all those crowds was also a feat unto itself. I'm already scarred from having lost Tucker at EPCOT.  I wasn't about to do it again! In the end, it all worked out. The three of them held each other's hands and only took out a few passersby with their pulling and swinging antics. It could have been worse. The dam itself was very impressive. I wish I could tell you more about it, but there was no time to read informational signs. As you can see, the boys were not super-impressed, but we bought cacti and suckers in the gift shop, and someone offered them a Hoover Dam rock, whatever that is, so all was not lost, except of course, for us trying to get back to our car. That's the other thing Mike is usually in charge of: finding our car at the end of our adventures.

After leaving the Hoover Dam, we stopped at Lake Mead National Recreational Area. I told the park ranger that we had about 90 minutes before we had to leave, and he suggested we just leave right then and there because there wasn't enough time to do anything, so that was super helpful (it was a day of super helpful tourism information). So, instead, we found a lovely little beach and completed our Junior Ranger booklets until it was time to go pick up NONA! You read that right! Nona is joining us on our epic Rock Tour! My poor mother. All she wants to do is go see LOVE, that Cirque du Soleil Beatles show in Vegas.  She even asked the universe to get someone to invite her out there because my Dad is decidedly anti-Vegas. And it worked! We invited her to Arizona to help me drive this ship of fools home, and Las Vegas is the closest airport, but there is just no time for a Cirque du Soleil show in the schedule. Sorry, Nona! Had Mike been with us, we might have at least driven by it. But the airport was about all the city driving I could handle, so we didn't even do that. Jack wanted to drive down The Strip, but there were just too many cars and lights for me. We found some dinner at an Applebees along our route, and then headed back to Kingman in the dark. But first, we stopped at Walmart and bought a car top carrier, because there is just no other way to get all our stuff home otherwise.  I'm not even sure how we made it out here.

Let it snow?

Day 11 - March 29, 2016

Happy Birthday, Aunt Gale! We wish we could celebrate with you. Today was not a very exciting day. After yesterday, I need more time to mentally prepare for tomorrow, so we just hung out at The Mountain House today. I did learn a few very important things today, though:

1) Despite my best efforts, my children are like little bombs that explode to fill whatever container you are desperately trying to contain them in: the car, a bedroom, a house - they will fill every square inch with their presence. I have spent most of the day emptying the car of their filth (where did all this stuff come from??) and trying to repack their things while cleaning their bedroom.  I have been largely unsuccessful.

2) The desert is not necessarily a hot and dusty place. It has snowed not once but twice today. Unamused.

3) Easter Grass was invented by the devil himself to punish parents for their lies and deceit.

That is all.

Into the Great Wide Open

Day 10 - March 28, 2016

So, today was an adventure!  If you know me well, you know I hate to drive, especially when I don’t know where I am.  Interstate driving is ok, but city driving makes me crazy.  I just don’t see very well, and I’m not a great multi-tasker.  I can figure out where to go OR safely operate a car, but generally not both at the same time.  Having a GPS is immensely helpful, but still not great because I also suck at judging distances.  “Turn left in a quarter mile” means very, very little to me.  Give me, “See that car turning up there? No, the blue one.  That’s where you need to turn.” But in the spirit of wearing big-girl panties, I packed the kids up for a day of fun and leapt into the great wide open.

Our first stop was three hours away.  I’m not sure why I thought that was a good idea.  Three hours is a long way to drive for an hour’s stop, especially when you hate to drive.  But we had skipped it on the way down, which bummed everyone out, so I decided we were going back for it.  It was called Meteor Crater just outside of Winslow, Arizona.  It’s not a national park, but it is a national landmark.  I don’t know what that means, either.  Meteor Crater is aptly, though not very creatively, named.  It is the largest and best preserved meteor crater on the planet.  When they finally figured out that it was, in fact, a meteor crater, they were able to use what they learned to identify other meteor craters across the globe. The crater is just massive.  The meteor came in at something like 26,000 mph and created the crater in just 10 seconds.  It’s 600 feet deep, a mile across, and, on its floor, you could watch 20 different football games on 20 different fields at the same time with 2 million spectators sitting on the sides watching.  It was also incredibly windy.  It has been windy around here, but there were t-shirts proclaiming “I survived the winds at Meteor Crater!” so I suspect it’s usually pretty bad.  I took the kids up to a pretty high viewing area, and Max was almost blown away!  He had trouble staying standing, and even I had to brace myself against the wind to remain upright.  But the view was spectacular!

After that, we continued on with our space theme and drove into(!) Flagstaff to the Lowell Observatory.  The Lowell Observatory is where Pluto was discovered and also where they figured out that the universe is, in fact, expanding.  We don’t normally do guided tours, but that’s pretty much all we did here.  Our tour guide, Travis, was excellent, so we took both of the tours he was offering that day.  The first was all about Pluto.  We were a little early, so Travis showed the kids all sorts of cool things the museum had on display, and even a few things they didn’t.  We learned a lot about Pluto.  The guy who actually discovered it was not actually a real astronomer.  Percival Lowell had been looking for Planet X for years, but he died never having found it (though he did photograph it at one point and just missed it!).  After his death, his brother gave the observatory a large sum of money to finally find it.  No one, however, wanted to do it.  It was a boring project.  To find a planet, you take photographs and compare the dots.  Thousands and millions of dots.  So, finally, the janitor volunteered to do it. He didn’t have enough money for college, but he was an amateur astronomer, and he thought that by working at the observatory, he might just learn “by osmosis.” (I actually hate that phrase.  Osmosis requires water.)  Anyway, as Travis tells it, it worked out for him because just 10 months later he found Pluto exactly where Lowell had thought it would be, even though Lowell’s calculations were wrong because everyone assumed Pluto would be another gas giant and we all know today that it is not.  He got lots of scholarship offers and plenty of fame, and he went on to study more about Pluto and eventually got sent off on New Horizons on its journey past Pluto.  Here’s something else I learned from Travis.  Since New Horizons has enough velocity to actually escape the solar system, Clyde Tombaugh’s remains (that’s the janitor’s name) will actually survive the death of our solar system.  And since space is so vast, statistically speaking, there is very little chance that New Horizons will ever collide with anything.  His remains could theoretically survive the death of our galaxy and who knows what else.  Talk about immortal!  Another cool thing that we learned was that sometimes, Pluto is actually closer than Neptune.  The way that the elliptical orbits work out means that sometimes planets are closer and sometimes farther, but Pluto’s elliptical orbit actually brings it closer to the sun during a part of Neptune’s orbit that brings Neptune further away.  During this time, Pluto even has an atmosphere because a thin layer of this giant nitrogen lake on the surface evaporates.  Jack was fascinated.  He has been telling this to just about everyone who will listen.  The other tour was to see this gigantic telescope that, at one point, was the best that money could buy.  It was Lowell’s original telescope that he set the observatory up with.  We got to see the telescope and the dome that rotated with clockwork since there was no electricity in Arizona at the time (it was the wild west back then).  We also learned a bit about spectrometry and our expanding universe.  Even Max listened to most of it.  I was impressed.

I also learned from Mike that his father will not be stable enough for Mike to return to us.  I returned to Kingman with a heavy heart, and brought the kids to IHOP for dinner. There wasn't much chance of turning the day around after that, but pancakes for dinner is always a good start. I guess these big-girl panties will have to stay on a bit longer.

The Fool on the Hill

Day 9: Sunday, March 27, 2016

Easter Sunday.  Today was not a great day.  It started off ok.  The bunny came, we looked for eggs, we found baskets, then everyone got dressed in their Easter best and we went for an Easter Hike up the mountain we are currently residing on and found a tiny herd of elk by a pond.  There were two playfully chasing each other around, in and out of the water and clearly having a great time.  Then there were two actually in the pond, drinking water and giving the others looks that I’m sure Mike and I have given to the boys.  We didn’t get closer because Tuck was afraid he’d get eaten, but it was a pleasant walk.  Later, however, things took a turn for the worse.  We have been on this vacation behaving as though everything is fine hunky-dory.  In reality, Mike’s Dad is gravely ill.  That’s actually a bit of an understatement.  He has late-stage pancreatic cancer.  The really bad kind.  We only found out about this in the few days before we were supposed to leave, and only had it confirmed while Mike was busy passing his actuary exam in the hours before our intended departure.  We talked to doctors, family, and friends, and finally decided to leave anyway.  There was nothing for us to do, and nothing was truly known.  His doctor herself gave her blessing.  When we returned in 3 weeks, there would be more to do and still plenty of time.  But today, it doesn’t appear that this is actually the case.  I had to send my husband home to his father and family while I put on my big-girl panties and stepped up to finish this thing without him.  I don’t really want to.  This is our family’s epic vacation.  It’s not much of a family vacation without the heart of our family.  But here I sit, alone in the mountains of Arizona, contemplating what to do with my children tomorrow to keep their minds off the fact that their father has flown away. We explained why, and I think they get it, but I’m getting a lot of attitude from Jack.  I don’t blame him.  The fun parent left. Still doesn’t change anything.

Gettin' our kicks on Route 66!

Day 8: Saturday, March 25, 2016

Today we visited the desert.  We’ve been in the desert for a little while, but today we came to appreciate it.  We started the day a little lazy, but we finally made our way to Oatman, AZ, the ghost town that just won't die.  Oatman is down the original Route 66 alignment.  It’s a crazy, twisty, turny road through some mountains, complete with the remains of an ancient car wreck where someone missed a switchback, and I was really glad I had my Lewis and Clark Bands.  (These, by the way, were the best investment of the whole trip.  I bought child-sized SeaBands for Jack, who also gets violently car sick, but I got these Lewis and Clark bands for myself because they have adjustable Velcro and I have tiny wrists. I have not been sick once this entire trip, and I should have been sick all day most every day.  I highly recommend them!) When we arrived there, Aunt Gale and Uncle Mikey in tow, we found the town was about a block long, but it was filled with enough people for at least 3 city blocks.  It was a lot of fun.  There was a (fake) shoot out in the street as the Wells Fargo was “robbed” by an outlaw.  There were wild burros roaming the streets looking for and receiving treats pretty much every 3 feet because there was always someone willing to feed them. And there were giant ice cream cones.  There’s no way to go wrong on a stop like that.



Our next stop was to London Bridge in Lake Havasu City.  This is something Jackson had learned about somewhere and just HAD to see. The real, actual, honest-to-god London Bridge currently resides in a city in the Arizona desert.  A businessman was building a town in the desert, and he wanted to convince people to go there.  So, when he heard that the London Bridge was for sale because it was sinking into the Thames, he went to London, bought the bridge, and had it taken apart brick by brick, numbered, loaded onto barges, sailed from London to California, and then had it brought to the desert by rail where it was meticulously reassembled using the number system devised in taking it apart.  Now it stands in the middle of the desert for tourists to marvel at and weird water-powered hover board riders to perform tricks under. Uncle Mikey even discovered the cache we were after, his first find!
Our last stop of the day was to visit some REAL desert at a piece of property Aunt Gale owns.  Driving by, the desert looks monotonous and dead.  Up close and personal, it is a completely different experience.  In the shade of a mountain, we found blooming cacti, giant Joshua Trees, soaring saguaros, and all sorts of life underfoot.  Her property is home to a matate, which ancient Native Americans used to grind corn and other grains into flour.  More interestingly, it is home to a military plane wreck from the 1960s.  Two planes were practicing some sort of maneuver over the desert when they collided.  I believe the story goes that one was able to limp back to the base, but the other spiraled out of control and broke apart in the air, half landing farther up the mountain where we were not prepared to climb and the rest landing farther down where we were able to inspect it.  Both the pilot and copilot were able to safely eject (though I wonder how safely they were able to land considering the landscape!) and there were no fatalities, but the wreckage remains and the boys had a really great time finding springs and wires and pieces of glass and melted metal. A little boy's dreamland! Of course, it was a mother's nightmare.

Everywhere you look, teddy bear cholla chunks littered the ground, and other cacti lurked around every corner, just waiting for an unsuspecting little boy to forget to watch where he was walking and run right into them. In fact, at one point, Tucker and Max both had cacti stuck to the bottom of their shoes and Tucker had spikes going clear through his shoes, and then while we were dealing with that situation, Jack took a bad step and slipped down a hill, ending up with cactus spines in him, as well! Never a dull moment! 

All in all, it was a really great day. We got to see some pretty cool stuff, and it was a lot of fun hanging out with Aunt Gale and Uncle Mikey.

Standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona...

Day 7: Friday, March 25, 2016

We woke up in the Cozy Cone Motel.  Well, not really.  We woke up in Wigwam Village #6.  There are actually 3 of these Wigwam Village motels in the country.  There were more, but most of them have closed down.  There’s the one we stayed in in Cave City, which I believe is the original, the one in Holbrook, and another in San Bernardino.  We aren’t going that far, so we won’t stay in all three, but the one in Holbrook was the inspiration for the Cozy Cone Motel in the movie Cars and, for some reason, I just felt we should stay in as many as we could.  There’s even a Mater tow truck out front! The kids were all super-excited to wake up and find themselves in another wigwam.  Even Tucker, who originally was just NOT - no way, no how- sleeping in a triangle (to which Max helpfully responded that it was actually a cone) was happy about it.  And this wigwam was actually pretty nice. I would definitely stay there again.

We had breakfast at Joe and Aggie’s, another Route 66 iconic establishment.  The pancakes were delicious, but the real draw was the fact that the owners were turned into Cars characters for the movie.  They even have signed drawings of Lightning McQueen and Mater drawn by John Lasseter hanging on the walls.  It was a real Cars sort of morning!

Upon leaving Holbrook, we drove to Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park.  The boys really loved all the petrified wood, and there were lots of other things to check out.  We saw a 35 foot long petrified tree called Old Faithful.  There were weird rock formations called The teepees.  We were quite amazed at all the barren wasteland of desert.  It just goes on and on forever and ever.  Oh, and the petroglyphs! They were different from the rock carvings in Bandelier.  Those were just carved into the rock, but were difficult to see if you weren't looking for them.  These are scratched into the desert patina and stand out very well.  I always wonder why they don't get re-covered in the patina again, though.  I mean, right? Shouldn't that happen?  Someday, I'll remember to ask someone about that.  Anyway, the part I thought was cool was a an old section of Rte 66 that used to go through the park.  The road isn't there anymore, but you can see where it used to stand because the old telephone poles that used to line the road just stretch out along the reclaimed desert.  It wasn’t my favorite park, but definitely worthy of inclusion on the Rock Tour. 

 

My favorite stop of the day was last.  We stopped in Winslow, Arizona and went to Standing on a Corner Park.  There is an actual park in town, with a false storefront with “Winslow, Arizona” painted across it and a flatbed Ford parked out front, that people can visit.  There’s a statue of a guy (there is some question as to whether or not it was supposed to be Jackson Browne, but I only saw a passing resemblance) standing there with a guitar, and the song Take It Easy plays in the background.  It’s a cheesy and corny stop, but I was actually pretty shocked at the number of other people “standing on a corner” that day.  We met two brothers from Oklahoma and Texas driving the Mother Road in their restored old car.  We took pictures for another couple passing through town, and as we left, another 10 or so people crossed the street to take our place.  I had been hoping to have the corner to myself, but, apparently, I was deluded in my thinking that I was the only person weird enough to think this was a Must-Do pit stop.  Instead, we drove off into the sunset to meet up with Aunt Gale in Kingman and begin the second leg of our epic Family Rock Tour.

In the land of the Navajo

Day 6: Thursday, March 24, 2016

Wow!  What a day! We got up and got going a touch late, but our first stop was totally New Mexico true.  We went and found a real UFO crash site near Aztec, NM.  The crash happened on March 25, 1948, so we’re a day early for the anniversary, but that’s ok.  We had to drive down hard-packed sand BLM roads to get there, and then we totally took the wrong mountain bike trail, but a nearby geocache got us to the right place in the end.  It was on a sandy desert plateau with high, snowy peaks in the distance. I can see why aliens might have wanted to get a better view.  The story goes that a UFO crashed on the plateau in 1948.  It was 100 feet in diameter and 18 feet tall, and it took the military 2 weeks to remove the craft and the 16 dead aliens inside. There is some speculation that, instead of removing the craft, it was buried, but that’s an awfully big hole for that area. We had fun checking it out, though. 

 

Our next stop was Four Corners.  The monument, on Navajo land, isn’t really much.  I’m not sure it’s really a MUST do, but we had a lot of fun.  The kids had a great time jumping from state to state.  Jack kept trying to be in a state all by himself, but his brothers always wanted to join him.  We were trying to leave the kids in Utah while we took a break much-needed vacation in Colorado, but no such luck.  Oh well.  I guess they are cute enough to keep. We bought arrow-head necklaces and continued on our merry way.

Finally, we arrived at the thing I had been looking forward to for weeks.  Monument Valley!  And it did not disappoint.  It was just SO beautiful.  They say that it’s where the land meets the sky, and I buy that. The different mesas and buttes and spires just soar above the desert floor.  It is easy to see why the Navajo revere the land so much. Standing among these works of art, shaped by the wind and rains  and painted by the desert itself, it is hard to not feel the divine at work in the world. 

I think the boys really enjoyed themselves, too.  There were so many tumbleweeds to find, and rocks to turn over.  We even made a lizard friend! We ended our day with pizza in Chinle.  We had hoped to check out a little of Canyon de Chelly, but it was late.  As we drove into the darkness on deserted reservation roads, we wondered what sorts of creatures you had to look out for in the Arizona desert that might dart in front of your car at night.  There are deer and elk in Arizona, but do they live in the desert? Were coyotes the issue? As it turns out, the answer is horses. Wild horses are what you have to watch out for while driving through the Arizona desert at night. We were lucky enough to not hit any of them, but it was a real possibility.  There were several just hanging out on the side of the road that night, and they all had that wild eye that, time and time again, I have seen in the eye of a deer who is waiting until the last minute, calculating if there's time, trying to decide if another day in this cruel world really matters. In the end, we did not hit a horse. We did have one calamity that night, though.  My phone cord caught fire while it was charging.  Luckily, it didn’t cause any real damage, and hopefully that is the worst that happens, but, as it turns out, cockpit fires are not the most fun things to deal with while on a long road trip. Luckily, I had a spare!

We arrived at our hotel in Holbrook, AZ late and carried the boys in.  I can’t wait to see what they say when they wake up in the morning!

Is there anybody out there?

Day 5: Wednesday, March 23, 2016

 

Today was a long day. It started at the VLA, which stands for Very Large Array. (I've noticed that scientists are not super-creative in their naming of things.) The VLA is a huge radio telescope in the middle of the New Mexico desert, 50 miles from pretty much anything and everything. Twenty-seven antennas, which are each 82 feet in diameter, collect radio waves from space and translate them into data for scientists all over the world. It was really interesting.  They use different configurations to get different data, and when they are at their farthest apart configuration, they span 22 miles! They essentially work together to make one antenna that is 22 miles across.  That's huge! Today they were in C configuration, so they weren't as spaced out as they could be (ha!), but they were pretty far apart. It was also REALLY cold and windy.  We had to bundle up into our winter gear, which I didn’t expect to need until we got to Colorado.  The best part was the exhibit where you could whisper into one dish and hear it clear as day from a faraway dish, which was even more impressive today since it was so windy it was hard to hear what people were saying when they were standing next to you.  The kids loved it. I did, too. I didn’t even know my kids knew how to whisper! It's a new skill I'm trying to cultivate in them now that I know it's even possible.

Open this picture and look at all the rock carvings!

After cleaning out the gift shop, we headed to Bandelier National Monument two hours away.  Bandelier was a second choice stop after Mesa Verde’s Spruce Tree House was closed, but it turned out to be a first rate attraction. I'd never heard of Bandelier before seeing a picture in a New Mexico visitor's guide, but, with that one picture, I knew we had to go. There was some really cool rock art, the dwellings were really interesting, and there were ladders to climb to get you right into the little cavates (cave – ate) the ancient Native Americans lived in.  Ladders into little hole-in-the-wall caves?  Sign my boys up! Who wouldn't love that? And they did. They totally did! Climbing down proved a little tricky, and there was supposedly a bigger house with bigger ladders that we did not check out for many reasons, as it turns out, but if anyone ever goes and does do the bigger ladders, I'd like to hear about it. The whole places was just very fascinating. The boys mostly just liked the ladders and the little herd of 7 or so deer we saw at the end, who did not, by the way, care one little bit that Tucker had just somersaulted down the hill and was sobbing not 10 feet away. They were completely unfazed by this little intrusion into their dinner. I would definitely go back to Bandelier one day, though. I'd be surprised if we didn't. 

After leaving the park, we took the scenic route through the Jemez National Forest. It was beautiful country, with giant ponderosa pines, snow in the shady spots, and a huge meadow for watching elk.  Of course, there were no elk, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying the view.  One thing that has struck us out here is that the ground is very flat.  That is, until it’s not.  There isn’t a lot of gradual incline or rolling hills.  It is just very flat until the ground runs up against a huge mountain, like in a child’s drawing.  It is so not like the east coast.

Anyway, tomorrow is a day I’ve been looking forward to for a long time.  I can’t wait to share it with you!